DONALD WILLERTON
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A VISIT TO AUSCHWITZ

1/29/2023

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​My first impression was that it was too pretty to have been a concentration camp. With well-spaced buildings, brick siding, tiled roofs, tall windows, and healthy trees, it wasn’t far different in appearance from the college I attended (photo #1).
 
What I had entered into was Auschwitz I, which existed from after WWI and was a Polish army barracks when Poland was invaded in 1939. The Germans first used it to keep POWs but quickly evolved it to look like the Dachau Concentration Camp, Himmler’s standard.
 
In 1941, a newer and much larger facility was built to compliment the original and to provide faster mass executions; see the map in photo #2. It is called Auschwitz II (also referred to as Birkenau, after a nearby village) and provides the more iconic view that most people are familiar with (photo #3), and has the large capacity crematoria.
 
The third part of the complex is Auschwitz III (also referred to as Monowitz, after another nearby village), which was built in late 1942. Monowitz is much smaller than the other two and was built to house prisoners who worked as slave labor at the large IG Farben chemical plant across the street.
 
Within 2 miles of each other, Auschwitz I and II receive about two million visitors a year; Auschwitz III was as close, but was destroyed at the end of the war; it’s not part of the tours.
 
My tour in September of 2022 was led by a resident guide using a microphone, while we wore earpieces. With maybe thirty on-hand during the day, each guide goes through several weeks of training to learn and follow a common script, meaning that except for answering questions, my group heard the same information as everyone else.
 
After going through metal detectors at the entrance, it took 45 minutes or so to tour Auschwitz I, transfer by bus to Auschwitz II, spend an hour or so there, walk through the museum, and then end the tour with a short visit to the bookstore. Several locations visited by the tour did not allow photography, out of reverence for the prisoners.
 
I did go through a crematorium, saw the execution wall where prisoners were routinely shot, peeked through the window of a genuine prison cell used for political prisoners, and saw the nice two-story house of Rudolf Hoss, his wife, and children. He was the commandant of Auschwitz, and was hung in 1947 from the same gallows that his prisoners had been hung. What would it have been like to grow up with a window that looked out on a concentration camp?
 
Every 27th of January is the International Holocaust Day, recognizing the anniversary of the liberation of Auschwitz by the Soviet Army on January 27, 1945. Last year on this date, I wrote about the Wannsee Conference in Berlin, hosted on January 20, 1942, by Reinhard Heydrich, that formalized the operational aspects of the extermination of the Jewish Race in Europe. In particular, six prison camps were recognized as those that would be reconfigured or built new as “Death Camps”. Those six camps would have the joint capability to kill as many as 25,000 Jews a day.
 
Auschwitz was selected as one of those six and that’s why Auschwitz II was built. Unlike Treblinka, another Death Camp, which had a few barracks (Jews stepped off the trains and were herded directly into gas chambers, which meant there was no need for a lot of housing), Auschwitz not only routinely brought in by train those who would be killed (photo #4) but also had a significant worker population to help build the camp, operate the camp, and to provide workers to the various projects and factories building war-related products. Auschwitz-Birkenau would eventually have more than a hundred barracks that would house 300,000 prisoners during the three years that it was active.
 
Seeing the preserved barracks and the vast number of foundations of destroyed barracks was the most gripping part of the tour for me (photo #5). Between 1940 and 1945, about 1.3 million Jews, Poles, Roma/Gypsies, Soviet POWs, Italians, French, Scandinavians, and others were brought to the camp, while 1.1 million of those were executed, the majority in the gas chambers. No matter how many came, there was always room for more.
 
I appreciated the model of the crematorium. Photo #6 gives the layout. Photo #7 is where the people arriving on the trains were directed into an underground room where they disrobed, hung their clothes on pegs, and sometimes found soap to use in the showers.
 
Expecting to shower and be deloused, they went into a large room that had shower heads installed in the ceiling. Once the gas pellets were dumped into the rooms, it took ten to twenty minutes for everyone to die from poisoning (photo #8).
 
The next photo is the room with the ovens. Bodies were brought up from the underground chambers and burnt, sometimes four-to-five bodies in each oven (photo #9). There were at least two of these facilities.
 
These buildings were destroyed by the Germans as they fled the camp in the face of the approaching Soviet Army. All that remains today are large piles of bricks and steel.
 
I’ve read about the various work assignments that prisoners were forced to perform: gathering the clothes, personal items, and the suitcases left by the people in the undressing room; cleaning the dressing room so the next crowd of people would not be suspicious; pulling out the bodies after they had been gassed (800 or so piled five deep on top of each other); searching each body for gold teeth, coins, hidden gems, and other valuables, cutting and collecting women’s hair; taking the bodies upstairs to be cremated; operating the ovens; and periodically taking the ashes out to be dumped.
 
I cannot imagine the horrors they must have seen. 

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TREPTOWER PARK, BERLIN

1/22/2023

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​From April 16 to May 2, 1945, more than 70,000 people were killed in the liberation of Berlin from the Third Reich. That number includes some 22,000 Soviet soldiers, 20,000 German soldiers and 30,000 civilians. Five years later, on May 8, 1949, the largest and most well-known Soviet war memorial was dedicated, paying tribute to the liberation of Europe from National Socialism and the end of World War II.
 
For over three years, some 1200 workers, 200 stone masons, and 90 sculptors worked on the complex. With its completion, it became the third memorial built by the Soviet Union in Berlin, the other two being the Tiergarten Memorial built in 1945, and the Schonholzer Heide Memorial in 1947.
 
The Soviet War Memorial and military cemetery in Berlin’s Treptower Park is spread over 25 acres and includes a 36 foot-tall bronze statue of a Soviet soldier with a sword, holding a German child, standing over a broken swastika. In front of the statue is a central area lined on both sides with 16 sarcophagi, one for each of the then 16 Soviet Republics, with relief carvings of military scenes and quotations from Joseph Stalin, on one side in Russian, on the other side in German. Between the sarcophagi is a cemetery with some 7,000 soldiers of the Red Army. The Schonholzer Heide Memorial includes more than 13,000, while Tiergarten holds more than 2,000.
 
The end of the central area has a portal consisting of a pair of stylized Soviet flags built of red granite, flanked by two statues of kneeling soldiers. Beyond those, close to the main walkway of the park, is a stone figure of the Motherland weeping at the loss of her sons.
 
The life of this memorial has not been comfortable. When Nikita Khruschev denounced the Stalinist rule in 1956, there were calls then and throughout the 1960s for Stalin’s words to be erased. It still took 30 years after Khruschev for Stalin’s reign of terror to be openly criticized, and with the fall of the wall and the unification of Germany, there were demands for the statue and the memorial to be torn down. There were massive protests and vandalism, but Germany has maintained its agreement to maintain and repair all war memorials in the country, including the memorial in Treptower Park.
 
It is a very impressive memorial and that statue is huge. 

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THE DRESDEN FRAUENKIRCHE

1/15/2023

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​Frank Smith didn’t know he would become well-known for an act of violence he had committed fifty-five years before.
 
The first church in Dresden was built in the 11th century. In an old yard that lay outside the city, surrounded by a cemetery, the church was the center of the earliest village settlement on a small hill alongside the Elbe River. By 1722, it was in danger of collapsing and was torn down, which was okay with the city council, because the church had been historically Catholic, whereas the citizenry of Dresden had experienced the Reformation and was now fervently Lutheran. Plans were drawn up for a new church by the city master carpenter, George Bahr, that would better reflect the new spirit of the Protestant liturgy by placing the altar, pulpit, and baptismal font directly in the center of the congregation’s view.
 
The Dresden Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) was enormous. Made of Saxony sandstone, it was an engineering marvel for its time, with an unconventional high dome (220 feet), four diagonally set corner towers in the outline of a Greek cross, and with staggered galleries inside that resembled a European opera house. It would hold 3,400 believers. When finished, it would include a famed Silbermann organ that was dedicated on November 25, 1736, and served as a recital organ by Johann Sebastian Bach on December 1.
 
For more than 200 years, the bell-shaped dome dominated the skyline of the city of Dresden. The church was highly important for the spiritual life in the city, for church music, and a focal point of political history.
 
On February 13 and 14, 1945, allied forces carried out a firebombing campaign against the city. In two days, the planes dropped some 650,000 incendiary bombs that would eventually lead to the city being 85% destroyed. The church held up well for the two days, but at 10 am on February 15, the eight interior sandstone pillars that held up the immense dome reacted to the heat of fires raging inside, glowed bright red, and exploded; the outer wall shattered and nearly 6,000 tons of stone plunged to the earth, collapsing the church’s floors into the crypts below.
 
After the end of the war, there were immediate calls for the landmark church to be rebuilt but by then, Dresden was not in Germany, anymore. It was in East Germany and was now governed by the Soviet Union under Joseph Stalin. The Soviets agreed to leave the immense pile of rubble as a war memorial, but they were not interested in erecting any new buildings that did not conform to the principles of the stark and proletariat Soviet architecture.
 
The rubble would remain for almost fifty years before miracles happened: the Berlin Wall fell, the Soviet Union collapsed, and Germany was reunited.
 
If you go to Market Square in Dresden today, you will not see the Frauenkirche as a historical structure of the city because the building itself was begun in 1993 and completed in 2005. It was built using computers, including a 3D program created by IBM that allowed visual placement of the stones; used modern engineering methods, machines, and materials; and featured immensely clever stone masonry. It was also built primarily by donations from around the world. It ultimately cost about $180 million.
 
But it looks just like it did in 1736. The building goal was not to make a replacement, but to achieve an architectural restoration. The original building plans used by George Bahr, plus various additions and corrections over the previous two centuries, formed the core drawings for the engineers and architects. Of the millions of stones used in the rebuilding, more than 8,500 original stones were salvaged from the original church and approximately 3,800 stones were used in the reconstruction. Two thousand pieces of the original altar were cleaned and incorporated in the new structure. The organ is new, but is constructed such that it can mimic the music of the original. The statue out front is of Martin Luther and was put into place before the war.
 
Where you see darker squares or rectangles in the pictures, those are original stones. Because Saxony sandstone has a small metal content, the appearance of all of the stones will eventually stain to the same color.
 
And Frank Smith? He was one the crewmen on the B-17 that targeted the Frauenkirche in 1945. While clearing the rubble, the original cross of the dome was discovered; it was on the top of the dome the night that Frank Smith flew over. In the early 2000s, Frank’s son, Alan Smith, was a goldsmith that lived in London and worked for Grant McDonald Silversmiths in London. Alan was selected to make the new gilded cross that now stands on top of the dome.
 
The old cross is on display next to the new altar inside.
 
The photographs are from my visit to Dresden in September of last year. The whole town, much of which was also restored after 1989, was a highlight of my trip.

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A WOUND WHICH WILL NEVER HEAL

1/8/2023

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​Peter Kollwitz was not of full age in August 1914 when he wished to join the German army. As such, he needed permission from his father to be a military volunteer, but his father refused. His mother, Kathe, persuaded her husband to change his mind and permission was granted. So, when Peter was killed ten days after leaving his home town of Berlin in October, there was not only grief, but also guilt.
 
By 1914, Kathe Kollwitz had already established herself as a great German artist through her production of prints, lithographs, etchings, and woodcuts, as well as sculptures. Having been born in 1867 Prussia to socially radical parents and an equally radical Lutheran priest for a grandfather, she was from childhood consumed by issues of social justice. When she married a doctor who worked solely among the poor in 1890s Berlin, she became deeply involved with the lives and hardships of the working-class people among whom she was living, and above all, with the role and responsibilities of women.
 
Peter’s death became a turning point. “There is in our lives a wound,” she wrote, “which will never heal, nor should it.” She would try to express her grief and guilt about her son through her different mediums for the rest of her life.
 
Throughout the 1920s and 1930s, many of Kathe’s posters, exhibits, displays, sculptures, and carvings were reflections of the war and its effect on people, society, and social concerns. She publicly opposed the rise of Hitler and, along with Einstein and other intellectuals and artists, encouraged voters to reject the Nazis in the 1932 election. Unsurprisingly, once they came to power, the Nazis banned her from exhibiting and forced her to resign from the Academy of Arts, where she taught.
 
In 1935 she produced her last cycle of prints—eight lithographs called simply Death. They portrayed individuals, including herself, in deep sorrow, grief, and despondency for the condition of their lives, transformed and diminished by war and oppression.
 
This was hardly welcome to the Nazi regime, as it claimed to be the rebirth of a cleansed and pure nation. She was visited by the Gestapo, who threatened her with a concentration camp; her international profile left her in relative freedom. The Second World War delivered a final blow: the death of her grandson on the Eastern Front in 1942 followed by her evacuation from Berlin the following year. She died in the last weeks of the war, in April, 1945.
 
In an entry in her diary dated October 22, 1937, the anniversary of Peter’s death, she wrote about a small sculpture she had been working on, a sculpture meant to be a private memorial for her son and herself together. It showed a mother, seated, holding her dead son lying between her knees, in her lap. Although the form derives from religious imagery, there is nothing Christian about this sculpture. The son is not, like Jesus, presented to the viewer for contemplation or adoration. He is not resting, as in Michelangelo’s Pieta, on her knees, but is huddled between her legs, almost totally enclosed. She does not show him to us, but attempts to shield him, although dead, from further harm. There is no hint of salvation, merely a response to slaughter.
 
On November 14, 1993, in the pouring rain, the President of Germany, Richard von Weizacker, came to the Neue Wache [New Guardhouse] building in Berlin to rededicate it as the National Memorial to the Victims of War and Dictatorship. It is a building with one display room with a plain slate floor and walls of stone under an oculus in the ceiling that is open to the wind, rain, and snow, as well as the sun. In the middle of the otherwise undecorated and unadorned room, was placed a larger version of the sculpture created in 1937 by Kathe Kollwitz, herself both a witness and victim.
 
Ruth Padel, a poet, said this about the sculpture:
 
“So there it stands, light versus dark. It is in the open air, the light comes down and it is surrounded by empty walls. It sums up the suffering of everybody in all wars. If this were found in a Neolithic tomb, it would still be relevant, because it is about a grown-up mourning a child. It was a kind of political genius of [Helmut Kohl, Chancellor of Germany, who chose the sculpture] to see that this would stand when other things fall away. There is no contextualizing, with any particular clothing or prop. There is just the little face of the dead child, turning up to the mother, the mother’s hand over his face but yet looking at the child, helpless. It is the embodiment of grief and loss.”
 
I took this picture in October of last year. I had read about this memorial, but had not expected to find the sculpture. I discovered it only three blocks from my hotel. Many of the words above come from Germany, Memories of a Nation, by Neil MacGregor.

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    Don Willerton has been a reader all his life and yearns to write words like the authors he has read.  He's working hard at it and invites others to share their experiences.

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